Franco Raicovich grew up eating Fuzi with his immigrant grandparents in Woodside. On Sundays, the family would gather around the table and carry out the family folding ritual that creates this diamond-shaped pasta, a traditional staple in Istria, a peninsula whose regions belong to Croatia, Italy, and Slovenia.
These days, Raicovich shares his family secrets via Fuzi Pasta Co. in Fresh Meadows.
The house sauce is called “Salsa Oro” or “The Golden,” which is a slow-cooked ragu (or sugo) with lamb, beef sausage, and rosemary. But Raicovich also serves a porcini mushroom sauce (sugo finto) for vegetarians.
Here are his other homemade pastas: Spaghettini Pomodoro (alta cucina tomato sauce, extra virgin olive oil, basil); Kale Gnocchi (mushroom cream, glazed cipollini); Ricotta Cavatelli (broccoli rabe, hazelnut pangrattatto), Lemon Pappardelle (seared shrimp, basil crema); Spinach & Asiago Ravioli (blistered cherry tomatoes, pesto splash); and Risotto Cacio Pepe (zucchini, IPA redux).
Shrimp Scampi and Chicken Milanese are among the items in the “not pasta” list. Plus, Fra Diavolo Friday (Maine lobster, bucatini) is followed by Lasagna Saturday (with Frank Sinatra music all night), and Sunday Gravy Sunday (spaghetti alla chitarra).
All entrees cost less than $20.
Appetizer options include Spiced Olives (orange, rosemary), Giardinera (Uncle Edik’s Pickled Veggies), Caponata (Sicilian Eggplant Salad), 11375 Mushrooms (burnt honey, ricotta, crostini), Tuscan “chopt” Salad (mozzarella, polenta, Chianti), and Nonno’s Minestrone (10 veggies, chickpeas).
Raicovich keeps it in Queens for his beer list, which features Finback (Glendale), Fifth Hammer (Long Island City), Evil Twin (Ridgewood), Rockaway Brewing (Long Island City), Big aLICe (Long Island City), Alewife (Sunnyside), ICONYC (Astoria), and SingleCut (Astoria).
Then, he keeps it in house for his desserts, which include Honey Panna Cotta, Tiramisu, Gelato, and Biscotti Di Prato.
Fuzi Pasta Co. is located at 68-26 Fresh Meadow Lane, about four blocks south of the Long Island Expressway. There’s plenty of on-street parking.
Editor’s note: Here’s the key to making great Fuzi. Roll the pasta dough into a thin sheet, cut it, place the strips over each other, and then cut again diagonally to create diamond shapes. Then, fold the diamonds to meet in the middle so it looks like a bow. This sounds like a lot, but it can be described in one word: delicious.
Images: Rob MacKay